Friday, February 9, 2018

Sewing with Sew Chic - Altering Simplicity 8439

Are you still pondering which fabric to cut for this dress? Yeah, me too. I'm also considering some minor style changes- but decisions are not REALLY final until my pattern has been altered and cut. It's taken me some time to slog through the testing and grading of each piece, but I'm finally on the other side of it and ready to share!

Choosing the right size is so critical (and it seems people complain about it so much) that I've made yet another video on "what size am I?"  It only took me about 20 (million) tries and now I absolutely hate teaching by video.  Even still, lot's of good information there, especially how to measure for a full bust adjustment.
AFTER I measured the pattern, I can safely say that these below are my final measurement/size recommendations. In my opinion, this pattern is definitely going to fit better with a "C" cup bust (3" more that the chest measurement) than a B (2"), which is doable, but C is better.  Note that those two sizes on the end have negative ease a the waist.

Once you've picked a size to fly with, next come the alterations video. That one also took a lot out of me with 5 pattern pieces to alter on view B! If you hate doing pattern alterations, this one will give you a run for your patience, but the video in that section is pretty thorough so it should go smoothly for the curious. 
I should warn you this second video is long enough to be a TV sitcom. I tried to go really fast, cutting everything I could and ended with 7 minutes spent on quick tips for accurate and speedy transitioning between sizes, lengthen/shorten, etc. The bulk of the time (23 minutes!) is spent on bust cutting and altering. Each section is labeled so you can watch the progress. Enjoy!

Alterations done, and ready to cut. My opinions on this are strong: I hate doing muslins. They waste both time and money, both of which we all agree we haven't enough of. But in the case of THIS pattern, there is a built in necessity to sew a muslin and it won't go to waste. It's called INTERLINING. This is a just a cotton muslin that lines your fashion fabric to give it weight and stability. I included this feature to add balance to the many bust layers in this dress. Nobody needs a heavy front shield unless it's a dress made of Kevlar!  A flimsy every where else just wouldn't do.  Taking advantage of that necessity, I did cut a muslin to test the fit! 
I discovered that the bodice needed about 1/4" more height at the front shoulder near the notch, and that there is still a touch too much room across the bodice. Later I would find another reason why the shoulder was too tight, but you will have to run on over to join the group to get the inside scoop (and of course join in the party!?). There you will find...yup, yet ANOTHER video:

 I tested the interlining with my standard bra (as you see me above)
 and again with a padded bra adding an extra inch- and the fit was much better in the cup area.

The back looks great. It sits right above that bone as it should.


 Then with my standard bra I pinched out about  a 1/2" inch on both sides as you see pinned here and think this will be a better fit, even with my padded bra. Here's how to make this alteration:

The best advice I can give is be sure to stay stitch every seam because you will be messing with it and don't want to stretch it out of shape. With that inset, clip that curve and add a big notch in your fabrics at center front. Match those big notches first, and pin to either side. 

 For your interlining muslin, use a basting stitch to test the fit, marking and cutting or recutting your fabric and pattern to match as needed to get a good fit. Don't over fit though. Once perfect, pull those basted seams out and you are ready to combine with your fashion fabric. 
Finally, after all those videos I get to sew! YAY!

Are you making this dress? Tell me about your experience!
Stay happy and keep sewing!

Monday, January 15, 2018

Sewing with Sew Chic - Preparing to Sew

Welcome to the Sew Along for Simplicity #8439

Though this is officially a "sew along" this first post is also written for the general audience who wants to successfully plan out their sewing projects.  For some of my readers, this may be their first introduction to my style, so let me introduce myself! I am the owner, designer, and pattern maker at Sew Chic Patterns where we make “Modern Patterns with Vintage Style”  at and for several years now, I am very excited to also have been designing exclusive styles for Simplicity as well. Because of the work I do, I have plenty of experience in planning, and let me tell you, the preparatory work before sewing is among the most critical decisions you will make. Take a wrong turn with fabric, size, alteration (or lack thereof) and you can get yourself into a heap 'o trouble down the road. 

 Gather Supplies
Before we begin, you’ll need to buy you pattern and gather supplies.  Besides your basic sewing supplies, here is a list of other supplies that I find useful and will be using:

  • pattern paper
  • tape (magic tape is transparent and can also be written on)
  • highlighter
  • Dritz Superboard cardboard cutting mat (can be pinned into)
  • Hemmer (or yard stick) - not shown
  • Chakoner chalk
  • plastic see thru gridded ruler
  • Seam gauge
  • Double stick removable tape
  • Tracing wheel
  • Dressmakers Carbon
  • Reader’s Digest Complete guide to sewing (1970’s version)

The RD book is the best sewing reference book, and in my opinion, it’s the only sewing book you’ll ever need.  It covers just about everything to do with garment sewing and any technique you will want to know is in there with great step by step instruction and illustrations. This book is always available on Amazon for just a few dollars.

Everyone has their preferred method of marking, and mine is usually the “wax” type dressmakers carbon. It makes a better line I can see, it doesn’t rub off all over your fabric, and the line doesn’t disappear before I need it. It's difficult to find. I buy mine in vintage shops and at Richard the Thread online store. (The wax type is  pictured on the left and the dusty “no wax” style is on the right.) Do place a little mark of the wax type on your selvage edge of your fabric before you prewash your materials to make sure it will remove sufficiently.
 If I can’t mark on my fabric for any reason (the weave or fabric type won’t tolerate it) my next “go to” is chalkoner style chalk marker. Sometimes pencil can also do an adequate job as runner up for marks inside the seam allowance or on a dark fabric.
My third favorite method is tailor tacks, or marking with needle and thread because it's time consuming, however, some projects require it. If your mark needs to show on the right side of the fabric then this will likely be the best solution. This blog post should get you started:

The back of your pattern lists the suggested fabric weaves and fibers. These are the safest choices because the designer had these in mind when deciding on both the design and the construction. Choose a soft fabrics and the garment will hang limp with a soft close-to-the-body hang. Firm fabrics with body will provide more structure and shape to the garment. A word of caution: The pattern of your choice will be designed and sized for either KNITS or WOVENS. These two are not interchangeable. Similarly, going outside of the recommended list does not necessarily mean your project is doomed, but just be prepared for challenges.  Be sure to check the “Notions” section on the pattern for more supply requirements. How much fabric to buy is listed on the back of the pattern for your size.  

Do a pre-cleaning, pre-shrinking test

What is the recommended care of your fabric? Check the end of the bolt, or the online seller listing to be sure you know the recommended cleaning method for your fabrics and trims.  Do a pre-wash with your fabrics, linings, and trims with that recommended method before starting any work on your garment.  If you will be dry cleaning, it is wise to take your fabric to give it a once through.  It your fabric is an unknown, make a decision and try it! This is the only way to pre-shrink the fibers, ensure compatibility, and avoid surprises. Should you pre-shrink interfacings? This is a dilemma even for me. Wovens are a definite yes. Pellon, the maker of non-woven interfacings swear they don’t shrink, but I’m not sure I believe it. I don’t pre-shrink pellon (wetting with warm water under the tap and drip dry) but rather I do a fuse test with my fabric to ensure compatibility before I cut. This fuse test then goes into the washer for the final up match test.  The point is to do everything you can to ensure your materials are well-suited. Once the garment is made, it’s so very disappointing to find out the materials are unsatisfactory, spoiling an otherwise beautiful project.

Measuring for Size 

Sew Chic patterns contain all sizes from 2-18, and Simplicity patterns have divided their sizing into at least two size ranges which vary from misses to women’s sizing. Not too many of us fit one size only, so multi-sizing is really handy, and it’s expected that you will need and use more than one size. Both Sew Chic and Simplicity patterns are made for a “B” cup, which is to say that the pattern is drafted for a person whose full bust is 2” more than the chest measurement- and this may or may not match the bra you are wearing.  The chest (sometimes called the high bust) gives us an indication of the shoulder width, so with garment making, the cup size in garment making is really a comparison of shoulder width to full bust width.  

Except for the chest (which is measured under the arm and above the bust),  all horizontal measurements should be parallel to the floor. Using two yard sticks taped together, measure from the floor to your bust point and place a pin. Measure the back from the floor up to that same point and place a pin horizontally. You may need a friend....or a mirror and tape your stick to a wall. I’ve placed a cross pin so my measuring tape can slip in there and keep my measuring tape parallel to the floor.
Write your measurements as you go.

step 1: measure the chest

1. Measure above the bust for a chest measurement. 

Step 2: measure the bust

2. With the tape in the same location at the back, measure across the bust point.

Step 3: measure the waist

3.The waist is located between the hip bone and the rib cage. Wearing a thin belt can help. Measure above or below, not over the belt.

Step 4: measure the hip

4. This dress won’t need a hip measurement, but we’ll take it anyway. Measure the hip across the widest, most protruding span of the buttocks.
Step 5: measure the backwaist

5. I’ve put a necklace on my mannequin to locate the base of the neck and you can do the same if you  have a hard time finding that one special bone. Measure your torso length from the base of the neck to the waist. This is your back waist length measurement.

Now check your measurement against the pattern size chart. The chest measurement for this pattern is 2” less than the bust chart measurement. I’ve added this pattern measurement to my chart in red pictured below.   Compare your CHEST and BUST measurements:

Pattern will require a SMALL bust adjustment
No adjustment is needed
Pattern will require a FULL bust adjustment

Circle your size based on your bust or chest measurement as recommended on the above chart. Circle your waist, hip, and backwaist too. Buy the size category that most closely spans your group of measurements. 

If your measurement runs between both categories, buy your pattern based on your chest.  A good fit in the shoulder is the most important, and adjusting the waist and hip is easy. 
ONE WORD OF CAUTION: All of my patterns, both Sew Chic and Simplicity are drafted to be TRUE TO SIZE. If you make a size smaller “because that’s what I usually make” it will be too small.  This pattern was designed to have a fitted look with a minimum ease in bust waist and hip. 

Buy your pattern at any of your usual Simplicity retailers and get your other supplies together. Wash your fabrics. Next I will go over prepping your pattern to cut, covering the full and small bust adjustment, along with length and width alterations and transitioning between sizes.

See you then!